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Haircolor

Victoria Wurdinger / January 6, 2022

Covering Gray? This Makes Grow-Out Easier:

covering gray hair
If your hair is over 50% gray, see a pro. Redken Cover Fusion was used for this client at Royal Marie Atilier in Los Angeles.

If you’ve been covering up gray at home, chances are the box color you’ve been using comes pre-mixed or with peroxide right in the kit. But did you know that too-strong peroxide or developer can over-expose the undertones in your hair, making it look red which shows contrasting roots too soon? For better grow-out and more long-lasting color, use this trick, which American Board Certified Colorist Deborah McCann uses at McCann & Company, Inc. in Dublin, OH.

“I use a permanent color product and 10 volume peroxide,” says McCann. “This creates a long-lasting ‘stain’ that appears softer next to roots as hair grows out. Also, the lower volume of developer does not expose too much undertone in the hair.”

Ideally, pair the color with a few soft highlights on top, and roots will look even softer as they grow out. Unless you’re proficient with highlighting kits, talk to your colorist about the concept. If you’re ready to try it on your own, get the color and peroxide at a beauty supply store, where you can ask for a shade recommendation and ask about timing. Then mix the developer and color in equal parts and leave on for 20 to 30 minutes, or as long as was recommended. Add highlights later, or not.

If your hair is dry, damaged or has already undergone a chemical treatment, always ask a professional to do the job. Another caveat: It only works if less than 50% of your hair is gray. Any more than that and the stain won’t cover well.

Victoria Wurdinger / April 5, 2016

Home Color Vs Salon Color

There’s lots happening in home versus salon haircolor that you may not have heard about. Here’s the lowdown–research thanks to Don Francis.

an-in-salon-class

Venture capital firms are investing millions in technology companies that help consumers order color online. They assume everything will be done via mobiles or tablets, and are creating systems to upload selfies, get a haircolor recommendation, order online and download how-to videos and instructions.
Some salons are selling home color. One has colorists consult, create a custom formulation and provide instructions. Consumers can order online, based on a retouch schedule.
1 in 5 of those with incomes of $100,000 or over used home color in the past year.

What can you do?

Create 3-D techniques…have something newer than Ombre, explain that home color is created to work with several natural shades and all will have different results, use a professional brand client’s can’t get in a store, and accommodate re-touch schedules. For those short on cash, present a trendy “rooted” look, stagger the start-and-stop points of highlights or keep the client close to natural. Don’t forget to talk about brass–a common side effect of home color.

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